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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.